Common problems

You notice: Car drives in 2, L and R but not in D. The D light on the meter does not come on

Usual cause: Gear selector (position) sensor on the gearbox, on the side facing the radiator fan, or its wiring. The computer does not know the car is in D

Fix: Check that the D light shows on the meter. Check the position sensor and its wiring before anyone opens the gearbox

◔ double-check fewer reports — confirm before replacing parts

You notice: "Keter keter" noise at idle only, at high mileage (about 190,000 km in the thread)

Usual cause: Worn timing chain or sprocket

Fix: Check the timing chain and sprocket; replace both with OEM parts if worn

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You notice: A/C cools while driving but not at signals or in traffic jams

Usual cause: In hot weather the compressor of 1000 cc cars can cut out or work weakly at idle. If it is bad even when moving, the compressor or gas may be faulty

Fix: Check condenser and fan. If needed, recover gas and recharge by weight (430–440 g HFC-134a). Then check the compressor

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You notice: Starter spins or slips but does not turn the engine on the first tries

Usual cause: Worn starter drive (Bendix), pinion, solenoid, brushes, or flywheel ring gear

Fix: Check starter solenoid, Bendix drive, pinion and ring gear for wear. Repair early to save the flywheel

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You notice: Starter makes noise and the engine will not start; battery under 12 V

Usual cause: Weak battery

Fix: Test the battery and replace it (34B19R). In the thread a new battery fixed it

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You notice: Underbody hits speed breakers at speed

Usual cause: Worn shock absorbers

Fix: Check and replace the shock absorbers before trying spacers or stiffer springs

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You notice: Starts in the morning but about 50 seconds later rpm drops and the engine stops

Usual cause: Suggested in the thread: coolant temperature sensor, or valve clearance / low compression

Fix: Check the coolant temperature reading with a scanner. Check valve clearance and do a cold compression test

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You notice: Engine overheats in jams or when driven hard

Usual cause: Radiator cap, leaks, fan speed, thermostat, water pump blades corroded, or head gasket

Fix: Check cap, leaks and fan. Check the thermostat and the water pump. Head gasket last

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You notice: Whistling at idle that stops when you press the accelerator quickly

Usual cause: Dirty or stuck idle air control valve (IACV) under the throttle body

Fix: Clean the IACV with carburettor cleaner; replace if still faulty

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You notice: Check-engine light comes on after the air-flow (MAF) sensor was cleaned

Usual cause: Sensor wire damaged by the wrong cleaner, loose plug, or an air leak after refitting

Fix: Read the code. Check the plug and the air hoses. Use only MAF cleaner. Replace the sensor (22204-22010) if the code stays

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You notice: Rattle at the front of the engine, timing codes, or engine will not start after a rattle

Usual cause: Dirty or old oil stops the hydraulic chain tensioner working; the chain can jump and bend valves

Fix: Change oil on time. If there is rattle, check the tensioner and chain before driving more

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You notice: Oil level drops between changes; blue smoke

Usual cause: Cheap oil and long change intervals coke up the piston rings

Fix: Check for leaks first. Do a compression test. Use correct oil and change on time

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You notice: After the crank pulley was removed (belt or timing work) the engine runs badly or valves hit pistons

Usual cause: Crank pulley not tightened correctly so the small key breaks

Fix: When refitting the crank pulley use a new key and the correct bolt torque. Check timing marks

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You notice: Starts cold but dies unless you press the accelerator

Usual cause: Stuck idle control valve or dirty throttle; in one case the ignition switch

Fix: Clean the throttle body and idle valve. Check coolant sensor reading and air leaks. Then check the ignition switch

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You notice: Speedo or clock display fades or goes blank

Usual cause: Failed small transistors that power the display (filament supply) on the meter board

Fix: Repair the meter board (electronics shop) or fit a good used meter

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You notice: Brake noise, low pedal, or rusty discs

Usual cause: Known weak point in the ADAC used-car report

Fix: Check pads, shoes and discs at every service

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You notice: Bubbling paint at rear arches; exhaust blowing

Usual cause: Known weak point in the ADAC used-car report

Fix: Check arches and exhaust when buying; treat rust early

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You notice: Knocks over bumps; loose feeling steering

Usual cause: Worn suspension bushes (ADAC used-car report)

Fix: Check arm bushes and links; replace worn ones

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You notice: Weak, yellow light at night

Usual cause: Plastic headlamp lens ages (ADAC used-car report)

Fix: Polish and coat the lens, or replace the lamp

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You notice: Rough idle, P0171 code

Usual cause: Cracked or loose intake or vacuum hose after the air-flow sensor

Fix: Check all hoses and clamps; spray-test or smoke-test for leaks

Codes: P0171

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Models: TA-SCP10, UA-SCP10

Problem: Rear brake pipe shape: packed snow can freeze, hit the pipe and damage it, so brake fluid can leak.

Remedy: Replace the rear brake pipe.

Official Japanese recall notice. Imported cars may or may not have had this done.

Models: UA-SCP10, CBA-SCP10

Problem: Driver airbag inflator housing poorly sealed. Moisture can get in and the airbag may not open properly.

Remedy: Replace the driver airbag inflator.

Official Japanese recall notice. Imported cars may or may not have had this done.

Models: UA-SCP10

Problem: Driver airbag inflator propellant can degrade; the housing can burst when the airbag opens.

Remedy: Replace with an improved inflator.

Official Japanese recall notice. Imported cars may or may not have had this done.